Reinstalling brakes

Generally speaking, brake rotors should be able to outlive at least two or three sets of brake pads before requiring replacement, but driving with pads that are too worn out could cause damage to the rotors, which are more expensive to replace than pads. Additionally, preventative maintenance such as replacing almost-worn-out brake pads helps to save you money in the long run compared to waiting until the pads are worn out and affect the condition of the rotors. The life of your brake pads and rotors directly correlates to how and where you drive your vehicle, but generally speaking, brake pads tend to last at least 30, miles.

If you drive carefully and keep up on maintenance, the brake rotors should survive at least two sets of brake pads before requiring replacement; in some cases, the rotors will need to be machined but not replaced. If you hear a squealing noise from your brakes when you press the brake pedal, chances are that the noise is coming from the wear indicator, which is telling you to replace your brake pads now.

Just as you would for a tire rotation, start by jacking up the vehicle on a level surface and place jack stands in a safe location to support the vehicle. Before removing the pads from the calipers, use a caliper compression tool or a large pair of pliers to squeeze the caliper piston s back.

Do not squeeze against the caliper piston directly or you could damage the piston. Once the piston has been compressed, then you can remove the brake pads. If you do need to replace the brake rotors, removal is generally easy. Some automakers use screws to attach the rotors to the axle hub, but most rotors are just held in place by the wheel being bolted to the hub. If the rotors have never been taken off, there can be metal clips around the wheel studs holding the rotors in place.

Even when these are removed, it is still sometimes necessary to hit the backside of the rotor with a hammer to loosen rust that is holding the rotor in place. If this happens, try to clean any rust from the axle hub before reinstalling the rotor. The brake pads and calipers are designed to slide back and forth on their mounts. After removing the pads, you need to clean the brake pad slide area with sandpaper to ensure a smooth surface.

In some worst-case scenarios, this area will have deep wear that can cause brake pads to hang up; in this situation, the caliper mounting bracket might need to be replaced. Reattach the brake pads to the calipers, and then reinstall the calipers. Apply some of the brake lubricant used for the brake pad slides to the caliper slide pins.

Before attempting to drive the vehicle, press on the brake pedal multiple times until you feel solid pressure. This reapplies caliper piston pressure to the brake pads. Failing to do this before driving the vehicle can result in lack of momentary lack of brake pressure, which could lead to a collision. Pressing the brake pedal also redistributes brake fluid in the system. Get the FIXD Sensor and free app today for a custom maintenance schedule based on your make, model, and mileage.

Never miss important maintenance again with automated maintenance alerts! Learn more at fixd. Lifelong automotive enthusiast with a soft spot for offroading. Wrencher turned writer, but I still love to tinker on just about anything with an engine.

GirlDad SaveTheManuals. My mazda 5 is shaming while the speed is above 50 mph. Any ideas someone? If the shaking is felt without the brake pedal being pressed, then it is likely not coming from the brakes.

And seeing as how the shaking is being felt in the seat and not the steering wheel, it seems the source is from the rear of the car.

Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Installing hydraulic disc brakes can be difficult without the knowledge or experience needed for proper setup. That said, a bit of know-how and experience can save you a good amount of cash down the road. In addition, becoming comfortable with the operation of your bike and its components can add confidence in maintenance and ideally minimize the need for trailside repairs.

Proper setup and functional brakes are crucial for the safe operation of any bike, so when in doubt, have the bike and brakes checked over by an experienced bike tech before riding.

Shortening the hose will require additional tools. Like any bike repair, an investment in the tools required is the first place to start; having the proper tools to do the job is key.

If you need to shorten the brake hose, additional tools will be required. With 1x drivetrains being the norm, the installation of the front brake is uncomplicated. Shimano brake levers feature a hinge that can open all the way up, though I prefer to remove the grips and slide them on. With bolt-on grips, it can take less time to slide off a grip than open the lever hinge. The brakes come pre-bled but unattached to the brake hose, so we start by sliding the lever onto the bar. The new Shimano XT 4-piston brakes are going on my Transition Sentinel with a Rockshox Lyrik fork, and the first thing I need to verify is whether the new brake from the speed group is cooperative with the previous generation speed i-Spec mount.

As the bolt is a bit too long, I added two small washers to avoid scoring or damaging the bar. Sorting out the different model year lever and shifter is probably the most troublesome part of the install. See links below for additional resources. Check to be sure you have the correct adaptors on hand before starting. Tighten the bolts temporarily, then back them off just slightly. If the rotor has some slight back and forth movement you can true it by cold setting it AKA bending using a rotor truing tool I have the Park Tool Rotor Truing fork DT-2 but you can also use an adjustable head wrench in a pinch.

With the wheel installed, looking down at the top of the caliper, and view the space between the rotor and caliper. Grip the brake lever and squeeze it to extend the brake pads. Engaging the rotor centers the caliper over the rotor.

While maintaining pressure on the lever, tighten the bolts to set the caliper adjustment. How tight to tighten the bolts? Shimano recommends torque specs of 6 — 8 Nm for the caliper fixing bolts.

After tightening the bolts, spin the wheel to make sure the wheel spins freely and there is no drag on the rotor. If there is contact between the rotor and the pads, look to ensure the rotor spins true, the pistons are extending evenly, and verify the caliper is centered over the rotor. If you have a sticky piston, you may need to work them in and out a bit until they are extending evenly.