Manual aprilia rx 50

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Click here to download your Aprilia Pegaso owners manual. Click here to download your Aprilia RS 50 owners manual. Click here to download your Aprilia MX 50 owners manual. Click here to download your Aprilia RS50 owners manual. To have the catalytic converter functioning correctly for long periods and to reduce possible problems regarding the contamination of the thermal unit and of the exhaust, it is necessary to avoid covering long distances with the engine running at constantly low rpm.

It is sufficient to alternate these periods with periods in which the engine runs at relatively high rpm, even if only for a few seconds, but rather frequently. This device provides for the oxidation of the CO carbon monoxide and of the HC unburned hydrocarbons contained in the exhaust gases, changing them into carbon dioxide and steam, respectively. Due to the catalytic reaction, the high temperature reached by the exhaust gases results in the burning of the oil particles, thus keeping the silencer clean and eliminating the exhaust fumes.

Avoid parking the catalytic vehicle near dry brush wood or in places easily accessible to children, as the catalytic silencer becomes extremely hot during use; be very careful and avoid any kind of contact before it has completely cooled down. This manual contains all the main information and the instructions required for normal use and maintenance of your vehicle. For controls and check-ups that cannot be carried out easily with the standard equipment supplied, we advise you to consult our Dealers who can assure you of quick and careful servicing.

To keep your aprilia vehicle always in perfect operating conditions, we advise you to insist on Original Spares and to have repairs carried out only by aprilia Authorized Outlets and Official Dealers.

When ordering spare parts from the Dealers, always quote the spares code which is stamped on a sticker placed under the saddle. It is a good idea to make a note of the identification code in the space provided in this manual, so that you will always have a record of it even if the identification sticker comes off.

All information is purely indicative and may be subject to variation without notice. Safety norms and regulations to protect the driver and other people from severe injuries or grave risks.

Running-in km Low pressure can cause handling problems and the tendency to weave and in extreme cases loss of control. The disadvantage may cause a damage of the cover, due to excessive local deformation. Tyre pressure must be checked when the tyres are at environment temperature, that is, when the vehicle has not been moved in. Check the depth of the tyre tread often, if it is worn below the allowable limit 2 - 3 mm. It is a good rule to write down the frame and engine numbers in the space provided in this manual.

Do not alter the identification numbers if you do not want to incur severe penal and administrative sanctions. In particular, the alteration of the frame number results in the immediate. The vehicles provided with the Automatic Switch-on Device can be immediately recognized, since the lights come automatically on as soon as the engine is started.

Never turn the key to the " " position while driving, in order to avoid losing control of the vehicle. With the key on the " " position, press the key, release it and turn it to the " " position. Using the ignition key it is possible to have access to the crash-helmet lock positioned on the rear part of the vehicle. In the initial period of use is very important for the future performance of the engine. We advise warming up the engine before starting off, allowing it to turn over for a few minutes at a low speed.

After the first km , have the vehicle checked with the first service coupon by an aprilia Offical Dealer. If there is no oil left in the mixer oil tank, avoid using the vehicle so as not to cause irreparable damage to the motor. The disc and shoes of the front brake require a run- ning-in period about km before reaching optimum performance conditions. If the starting takes place with cold engine, push the choke lever upwards Fig.

If the mixer oil reserve warning light " " comes on during the normal running of the engine, this means that the mixer oil. Do not continue to press the kickstart lever or attempt to use it while the engine is running. Once you have started the engine, wait for a few seconds, then twist the throttle, turn the accelerator handle firmly as far as it will go, thus automatically disconnecting the starter a metallic click will be heard. The engine must not remain turned on with the battery or the voltage regulator disconnected; this would cause irrepara-.

Engage 1st gear gear pedal downwards. Release the throttle, pull the clutch lever in and lift the gear lever upwards to change to the higher gears. Vice versa, push downwards when changing to a lower gear. Before riding the motor cycle we advise you to get to know the controls and all their functions as explained in this manu-.

Checking the gear selector - Check that the selector shaft is not worn or damaged - Mount the components following the removal procedure but in reverse order - Apply one drop of Loctite on the thread of the screw of the drum control head - Make sure that the selector shaft springs and the gear selector lever spring have been correctly fitted.

Starter motor Removing the starter motor - Remove the transmission gear collecting the shimming - Unload the spring and remove the start-up mechanism. Installing the starter motor - Follow the removal procedure but in reverse order, making sure to remove possible oil spills present in the coupling hole of the transmission gear and correctly placing the end of the start-up mechanism spring in its appropriate pit - Check that the lower and upper shim washers are fitted. Generator side Magneto flywheel removal - Remove the gear pedal - Undo the three fixings screws and remove the left crankcase cover.

Unscrew the flywheel fixing screw and collect the spacer. Installing the flywheel - Align the reference point «2» on the engine and fix it with three screws - Make the electrical cable go from the seat to the stator plate - Make the notch «1» of the stator plate coincide with the reference point on the engine crankcase - Fix the plate with the three screws - Fit the stator on the stator plate.

Disassembling the clutch - Remove the crankcase right cover - Undo the 5 screws fixing the clutch spring and lift the internal clutch cover. Checking the clutch housing Carry out a visual inspection of the clutch jaws. Replace the component if there are signs of thermal fatigue, reduced surface hardness or irregular jaw wear.

Checking the pusher plate Check the disc thrust plate and its axial bearing. Checking the clutch hub Check that the disc holding plate is in good conditions.

Check that the coupling between the surface and the plate is not eroded or grooved. Replace the part if any defect is found. Initially, it should be aligned with the gear of the main transmission 2 , and then, after manually turning the intermediate gear of the kick starter 4 , should be aligned with the lower gear of the clutch bell. Installing the clutch cover - Insert the bolts on the clutch cover - Fit a new gasket on the crankcase right cover - Make sure the faying surfaces of the crankcase and cover are clean and not damaged - Align the tappet 1 with the clutch lever on the cover.

Head and timing Removing the cylinder head - Remove the coolant rubber pipes connecting the pump and the radiator and collect the coolant - Remove the rubber pipes connecting the head and the radiator - Disconnect the electrical connector of the temperature sensor - Remove the spark plug - Undo the five fixing screws to remove the head cover - Undo the four stud bolt nuts to remove the head and its gasket.

Cylinder-piston assembly Removing the cylinder - Empty the coolant out the system - Remove the cylinder head - Remove the cylinder by slowly sliding it upwards - Remove the base gasket - Put a piece of old cloth in the cylinder housing hole on the crankcase so that no object can fall in.

Disassembling the piston - Remove the cylinder - Remove the seeger ring retaining the pin - Remove the pin.

Be careful to support the connecting rod properly to avoid deformations - Remove the piston - Remove the gasket rings from the piston piston rings - Remove the roller cage of the connecting rod small end - Check and clean the components - Clean the piston crown carefully to remove any carbon deposits - Visually check the piston sealing circlips. Replace them if damaged or distorted. Checking the cylinder - Measure the openings of the piston elastic sealing rings by placing a feeler gauge in the cylinder.

Checking the piston - Check the piston outside diameter following the perpendicular axis to the pin seat. Carry out measurements 15 mm 0.

Fitting the piston - Refit the piston sealing circlips - Fit a new cylinder base gasket - Refit the roller cage at the connecting rod small end and make sure to lubricate the components with recommended oil - Refit the piston paying attention to the direction of the arrow indicated at the piston crown. This arrow should be facing the outlet - Fully fit the previously lubricated pin and mount two new pin retaining seeger rings being careful to fit them in their correct positions - Lubricate both the cylinder and the piston faying surfaces and the sealing circlips - Carefully fit the piston in the cylinder being careful to press the sealing circlips in their positions.

Installing the cylinder - Lubricate both the cylinder and the piston faying surfaces and the sealing circlips - Carefully fit the cylinder in the piston being careful to press the sealing circlips in their positions - Fit a new head gasket and refit the cylinder head - Mount the head cover - Fit a new spark plug - Connect again the temperature sensor connectors and the spark plug cap - Fill up the cooling system being careful to purge it.

Installing the cylinder head To refit, carry out the removal operations but in reverse order: - Fit a new gasket between the head and the cylinder - Check that the coupling surfaces are perfectly clean - Place the head on the cylinder and tighten the four stud bolts in two or three stages, tightening one stud bolt and afterwards the one that is diametrically opposite - Refit the head cap tightening the screws in several stages - Refit the spark plug - Connect the thermal switch connector and the spark plug pipe - Connect the radiator hose to the cylinder head - Connect the radiator hose to the hydraulic pump - Fill up the cooling system reservoir with coolant - Bleed the system.

If the flywheel has been already removed, reposition it on the shaft only for this operation. Inspecting the crankshaft components - Thoroughly clean and degrease the crankshaft and then check it - Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the big end and the half shaft. Refitting the crankcase halves - Fit the selector. Lubricate the surfaces with specific oil - Make sure that the gear housing works properly by selecting different speeds and turning the drum to both sides - Select neutral gear and check that the system rotates freely.

Oil pump Removing - Remove the start-up pedal - Remove the rear brake pedal - Detach the sleeve connecting the radiator to the hydraulic pump and flow out the coolant of the cooling system - Disconnect the clutch lever wire and remove the clutch wire clamp - Drain the oil out of the gearbox - Remove the oil pump cover - Undo the two fixing screws of the oil pump - Move the whole oil pump assembly and its choses upwards but do not detach them.

Inspection - Remove the pump - Make sure that the pump drive rotates freely - Check the sealing rings are in good conditions. Replace them if they are damaged or deformed - The oil pump is an essential safety element for proper engine operation. Replace, not repair, them in case of faults. See also Removing Oil pump purging - Check oil in the reservoir for correct level; top up with recommended oil if necessary - Place a suitable container under the pump to collect the oil purged from the pump - Loosen the oil pump bleed screw 1 , located at the front of the pump between the inlet and the delivery pipes, to facilitate drainage until the oil flow is constant and no air bubbles are formed.

Tighten the bleed screw 1 Pipe purging - Fill up the fuel tank with a mixture of oil and petrol at 2. Installing - Mount the oil pump shaft following the same procedure as for removal but in reverse order - It is crucial to check that the shim washers are correctly mounted - Mount the transmission and the driving gear - Fit a new oil seal in the clutch lever seat on the cover - Fit the clutch lever.

Operate the nut to align the symbols stamped cage on the oil pump with the throttle control in neutral - Mount the oil pump cover. Carburettor Removing - Remove the carburettor by releasing the clamps on the inlet manifold and the bellows connected to the air cleaner housing - Remove the fuel pipe of the carburettor, the mixer oil intake pipe and the fuel cock vacuum pipe and the two carburettor heating pipes.

Reed valve - Remove the carburettor from the engine - Remove the reed valve and its gaskets from the crankcase. Replace it if damaged or deformed.

Weight: 3. This is detrimental to a correct idle speed adjustment. Grip the holder tube firmly and pull out from the sleeve together with the seals and sliding components. These scorings can be eliminated by rubbing them with wet sandpaper grain 1. Replace the holder tube if the scoring is deep. Use a dial gauge to check that the curvature of the stanchion is within tolerance.

If over the value, replace the stem. Characteristic Bending limit: 0. Spring Check the spring is in good conditions. Fit the piston in the holder tube and install the alignment bushing indicated on the end of the piston. Fit the stanchion holder tube into the lower steering yoke, the headlamp clamps and the upper steering yoke.

Tighten the screws fastening the lower steering yoke to the holder tubes to the specified tightening torque. Definitively tighten the screws fastening the upper steering yoke to the holder tubes to the specified tightening torque. Place a support between the swingarm and the saddle mounting so that the shock absorber is in neutral position.

Undo and remove the nut on the fastener connecting the single link rod to the swingarm: remove the screw. Undo and remove the nut on the fastener connecting the double link rod to the frame: remove the screw. There must be no axial clearance. Replace the ball retainers that present these problems. Apply grease on the rollers.

SEALS 2 Check that the gaskets are in good conditions; replace them if they show signs of damage or excessive wear. Detach the mounting complete with rear brake calliper from the swingarm, leaving the brake line and cable connected. Fit the chain with the two ends joined at a point between the pinion and the sprocket on the lower branch of the chain. Check vertical chain deflection at the mid point of the lower section of chain between the pinion and the sprocket.

If the chain free play is less than 30 mm 1. Move the vehicle forward so as to check the chain vertical oscillation in other positions too. Use the adjuster screws 3 to adjust chain clearance, checking from both sides of the vehicle that the references 2 match. Bleeding the braking system Front Any air trapped in the hydraulic circuit acts as a cushion, absorbing much of the pressure applied by the brake pump and minimising the braking power of the calliper.

Insert the transparent plastic pipe in the front brake calliper bleed valve and slide the other end of this pipe in a container to collect the fluid. This will release the tension on the brake lever and will make it reach the end of stroke. Rear Any air trapped in the hydraulic circuit acts as a cushion, absorbing much of the pressure applied by the brake pump and minimising the braking power of the calliper. Insert the transparent plastic pipe in the rear brake calliper bleed valve and insert the other end of this pipe into a container to collect the fluid.